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Soil Mixes That Truly Understand Your Plants Not all soil mixes are...
Growing cacti and succulents successfully depends a lot on the soil. Their roots are adapted for dry and often harsh conditions, so choosing, mixing, monitoring, and sometimes changing cacti and succulent soil are key tasks. Below are many frequently asked questions and detailed answers to help you get the soil just right, avoid common problems, and ensure healthy, thriving plants.
Ideal soil for cacti & succulents is well-draining, light, with good aeration. It should not retain too much moisture, because root rot is a common risk if soil stays damp. Also, nutrient levels should be moderate to low; these plants are adapted to lean soils.
Regular potting soil often has a lot of organic matter, peat, or moisture-retaining components. That means it stays wet for too long, lacks sufficient grit or coarse particles for drainage, and can compact. All that leads to soggy roots and fungal issues.
Most cacti & succulents prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil, approximately pH 6.0 to 7.0. pH outside this range can reduce the availability of nutrients or promote disease.
A good mix often includes:
Sometimes charcoal or mineral additives to avoid stagnation or improve sterility.
A common DIY recipe is something like: 3 parts coarse, inorganic grit or pumice + 3 parts perlite + 2 parts coco coir and a bit of sand. Adjust based on species and climate. If very dry/hot, increase the inorganic portion.
Yes, sand is a useful ingredient. Use coarse sand (builder’s sand, washed and coarse), not fine sand that compacts easily. Washed or sterilised sand helps avoid pathogens or clay particles that retain water.
Yes, these improve drainage & aeration. Pumice holds some moisture but drains well; perlite is lightweight and airy, gravel or grit adds bulk & helps prevent packing. Use depending on what is local/available. Some Cacti & Succulent mixes such as Sybotanicas are ready to use as is!
A small amount helps with nutrients & moisture retention, but too much organic matter can retain excess water and cause root rot. Use composted bark, coir, or worm castings sparingly.
Commercial mixes are convenient and often balanced for many species. But they may include peat or other moisture-retaining materials that aren’t ideal in humid or low-light homes. DIY allows more control over drainage, aeration and adaptation for particular species or environments.
Yes. Desert cacti generally need grit-heavier, very fast draining soil with perhaps less organic matter. Tropical succulents (e.g. some in the rainforests) often grow in more humus, may tolerate more moisture, more shade, so their soil can include more organic content, lighter drainage.
Lithops need extremely well-draining, nearly mineral soil. Very small particle size (sand, grit) and almost no organic matter. They are very sensitive to moisture and rot.
Close, but often they tolerate more organic matter and might require a little more water. However, it is still a well draining, airy mix. Slight adjustments in grit or organic proportion may improve their performance.
Yes. Epiphytic cacti often grow in loose, barky, airy substrate, often mixed with orchid bark, charcoal etc., less heavy mineral gravel. They need moisture-holding and airflow more than desert cacti.
In humid climates, increase aeration & drainage: more inorganic material, less organic, ensure pots drain well, possibly smaller pots to reduce moisture build-up and avoid peat which retains moisture.
Repot at the start of their active growing season (often spring or early summer). Also when roots are coming out of drainage holes, the plant is rootbound, soil becomes degraded, or the mix no longer drains well.
Generally every 1-3 years, depending on growth rate, how well soil is holding structure & drainage. Faster growing or outdoor plants may need more frequent soil replacement.
No, the soil should be lightly settled but not compacted. Tight packing reduces aeration, impairs drainage, and can lead to waterlogging. It is better to let gravity and gentle tamping settle soil.
Use enough soil so that roots have room to grow but not so much that the soil mass holds water for too long. For large pots, ensure the bottom layers are chunky/inorganic to help drainage. Smaller pots need more frequent watering but smaller soil volumes. You can quickly work out the exact amount you need with our pot volume calculator.
Air spaces in soil allow roots to breathe (oxygen), prevent anaerobic conditions & rot. Poor aeration leads to roots suffocating, fungal growth, slow growth.
Some can tolerate a modest amount if the environment is dry & watering sparse, but generally no. Water-retentive soils increase the risk of root rot & fungal issues, especially in cooler or less sunny situations.
Risks include: root rot, fungal/bacterial infection, yellowing or softening of stems, decay, stunted growth, in severe cases plant death.
Organic matter breaks down, fine particles settle, watering/fertiliser salts cause crusting, heavy rain or watering from above washes fine soil into gaps. Compaction reduces aeration and drainage.
Often due to salt build-up from hard water or fertiliser. Also possible mould or mineral deposits.
Indicates anaerobic decomposition, too moist, poor drainage, root rot, bacterial activity.
Usually due to prolonged wetness, poor drainage, overwatering, compacted soil, lack of airflow, cold soil (which slows drying). Also possible that soil mix holds water too strongly (too much peat, not enough grit).
Yes. They thrive in moist, organic soils. To prevent: use drier soil, avoid overwatering, let topsoil dry out, use coarse top layer, possibly use sticky traps or biological controls, repot if infestation is severe.
Increase proportion of inorganic material, reduce organic. Use fast-draining pots (terracotta), ensure good airflow, reduce watering frequency, perhaps use raised or sloped surfaces so water doesn’t sit.
In dry climates, some extra moisture retention helps (slightly more organic or coir) but still retain good drainage. Monitor for over-drying. Use mulch or shaded area to slow evaporation.
Often yes. Indoor conditions have less airflow, lower evaporation, possibly less intense light, so indoor soil should be more airy, less moisture retention. Outdoor soil can be a bit heavier if in a very dry or sunny environment.
You don’t always need to change, but adjust watering accordingly. In winter, watering much less; ensure soil is completely dry before watering again. If soil is very degraded after growing season, repot/refresh in spring.
More light (esp. sun) dries soil faster; you can afford soil with more organic content. In low light, soil dries slowly, thus needing much more drainage and less moisture retention to avoid rot.
Yes. Charcoal can help absorb toxins, reduce odour, improve drainage and sterility. Useful in mixes especially for epiphytic or forest succulents.
Peat retains moisture, which is risky. Small amounts are sometimes okay if balanced with coarse drainage; but many growers prefer alternatives (coir, bark, inorganic matter) to avoid overly damp soil.
Yes, but sparingly. Succulents are not heavy feeders. Fertiliser during the active growth season helps; compost tea should be diluted and used occasionally. Too much fertiliser can lead to lush but weak growth.
Yes. Top-dressing helps reduce soil splash, preserves moisture balance at surface, reduces pests or mould on soil surface, keeps substrate structure. A gravel top layer also improves aesthetics.
Yes, especially if using soil or components from unknown sources. Sterilisation (by heat or baking) can eliminate pests, fungal spores. But care with heat to avoid harming beneficial microbes if you want them.
There is truth: “cactus- or succulent-specific” mixes are formulated for drainage profile, aeration, and minimal unwanted moisture retention. But many mixes marketed as such still vary a lot; DIY or adjusting commercial mix is often needed.
When roots are overcrowded, when old soil no longer drains, if plant growth has slowed even with correct light & watering, after pest or disease issues or every 1-3 years as preventative.
You can replace soil without changing pot if soil is degraded (compacted, salts build-up, poor aeration), even if pot size is OK. Usually every 1-3 years. If pot size needs to change, do both together.
Slower growth, water pooling, soil stays damp long, mould or fungal growth, sour smell, roots rotting; crust or white salts on soil surface, roots protruding badly, yellowing or soft tissue.
Do it in the active growth season; gently remove old soil, avoid overwatering immediately after repot, let the plant settle, avoid fertiliser for a little while and monitor for stress.
For more watering tips, see our blog on the 6 most common mistakes and how to prevent them.
Use a soil pH test kit. If too acidic (<6.0), add lime or crushed calcareous material. If too alkaline (>7.5-8), use acidifying agents (sulphur, peat, acidic compost). Always adjust gradually.
Containers dry more slowly (especially large ones), so use more drainage material; ensure the pot has drainage holes. Raised beds often have better drainage, but still need soil amendments if the base soil is heavy clay.
Finely graded, but still well draining. Often a mix with finer particles but still grit. Use a sterile mix. It should retain minimal moisture because seedlings are very vulnerable to rot.
Yes. Terracotta is porous, helps evaporate moisture, thus soil can be a bit heavier. Plastic retains moisture more; so soil needs to have even better drainage, possibly more inorganic.
If you water infrequently but deeply, soil needs to drain well, so that roots are not sitting in water after watering. Mist or shallow watering with moisture at the surface requires soil that dries fast. Overhead watering of dense soil is risky.
Growing cacti and succulents successfully depends a lot on the soil. Their roots are adapted for dry and often harsh conditions, so choosing, mixing, monitoring, and sometimes changing cacti and...
Growing cacti and succulents successfully depends a lot on the soil. Their roots are adapted for dry and often harsh conditions, so choosing, mixing, monitoring, and sometimes changing cacti and...
Orchids are special in how they grow: many are epiphytes (living on trees), so their roots expect airflow, quick draining, and moisture without sogginess. A good orchid mix mimics their...
Orchids are special in how they grow: many are epiphytes (living on trees), so their roots expect airflow, quick draining, and moisture without sogginess. A good orchid mix mimics their...
Alocasia roots like air, steady moisture, and warmth at the same time. In nature many grow in rich, constantly moist, well aerated substrates. Indoors that translates to a potting mix...
Alocasia roots like air, steady moisture, and warmth at the same time. In nature many grow in rich, constantly moist, well aerated substrates. Indoors that translates to a potting mix...
